Gingerbread, mulled wine and bratwurst - The Christmas market in Freiburg im Breisgau

Southern Germany has a special place in my heart, and not only because of the acquaintances and the frequent holidays I have spent there. The special city of Freiburg im Breisgau also plays a big part in this. The many winding little alleys, the big shopping street, beautiful parks and above all: delicious food. Just the thought of butter spätzle with sliced veal in cream sauce makes my mouth water.

Freiburg im Breisgau in summer is something in its own right, a beautiful city but otherwise not particularly special. What is special about Freiburg shows in winter, when the evenings get longer, mist hangs over the flat landscape in the morning, and you would rather drink a hot chocolate than an iced tea. Right at the start of Advent, the people of southern Germany begin to spruce up their city for the Christmas season. Countless stalls spring up in front of the town hall square as if out of nowhere, the already narrow alleys are crammed with Christmas offerings, ornaments hang high above the ground and glitter in the many coloured lights. Where Halloween decorations once hung in the shop windows, Advent wreaths now go, and on the Münsterplatz one or two Christmas tree sellers bustle about, wrapped up in thick jackets and hats, ready to explain the pros and cons of a Norway spruce to anyone who wants to know.

When we arrive in Freiburg im Breisgau, the hustle and bustle of – mainly – tourists is already in full swing. Clutching our suitcases tightly, we push our way through the crowds and are glad to catch our breath at the hotel and drop off our things. The break does not last long, however. We are far too eager to see the city and, of course, the Christmas stroll.

Equipped with thick winter jackets, we venture out again and are immediately overwhelmed by a wealth of flavours. Bratwurst here, gingerbread there, and roasted almonds and Magenbrot can be found at every stall anyway. The question that arises here is: eat first or shop first?

Both are possible, and so, with a typical Freiburg bratwurst in hand, we set off to explore the city down to its remotest corners. The Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse is of course famous for the endless number of shops lined up on both sides of the street. Everyone finds something there: great clothes, elegant shoes, presents for dad, mum, your partner. On our stroll through the city, a visit to the bookshop must of course not be missed. There we come across a special gem of the Christmas market. Hidden away on a small square stands a Ferris wheel – although it could more accurately be described as a small wheel. But the Ferris wheel was not what was special about this hidden corner. No, it was the stall with the most varied selection of chocolate marshmallow treats I have ever seen. Flavours ranging from coconut, vanilla, marzipan and stracciatella. For coffee lovers there was mocha and cappuccino, for berry fanatics raspberry. Of course we leave a bit of our money at this stall, but then move on all the more pleased with ourselves.

We stop at a little café on the town hall square, where we have hot waffles and hot chocolate, before moving on to the Minster to look at the great building from the inside – certainly also to escape the cold wind that has sprung up. Just like Bern Minster, Freiburg Minster is also built of sandstone and therefore needs renovation every year so that it does not collapse under the influence of nature. Even so, the interior seems all the more special in the soft candlelight.

We enjoy our dinner at the Oberkirch restaurant, which has always been a must on all our visits. Both the service and the food are first class, and so, full and content, we head back out into the cold for an aperitif at one of the mulled wine stalls.

The next morning we get up fairly early again so that we can visit the city once more in peace and do our last Christmas shopping. After all, you don't come across such a diverse selection of gifts every day. Alongside stalls selling baubles and Christmas tree decorations, there are jewellers, handmade soaps and even a stall where you can break open a crystal yourself. Silk scarves, knitted gloves, antique books, records and all kinds of knick-knacks are also on offer.

We have lunch in a little restaurant again, and for the afternoon snack we return to the little café from the day before, to try another heavenly waffle.

Just as we are getting too tired to keep standing on our feet, it is already time to leave the city behind us and take the coach back to Switzerland. Armed with one last piece of gingerbread and the taste of mulled wine still in our mouths, we turn our backs on this beautifully illuminated city and promise ourselves right now that we will come back here at this time next year.